Process for reshaping keratin fibers

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a process for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising (a) at least one diol selected from C 4-5  diols, wherein the composition has a pH of from 8.0 to 13.5, preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0; (ii) heating the keratin fibers; and (iii) optionally rinsing and/or drying the keratin fibers. The present invention can reshape keratin fibers without reducing and oxidizing the keratin fibers, and can provide superior reshaping efficiency, such as strong wave intensity and many curls.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This is a national stage application of PCT/JP2018/038235, filedinternationally on Oct. 5, 2018, which claims priority to JapaneseApplication No. 2017-198290, filed on Oct. 12, 2017, both of which areincorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a process, in particular a reshapingprocess, for keratin fibers such as hair, and a composition, as well asa method and a use, which relate to the process.

BACKGROUND ART

In long-lasting deformation of keratin fibers such as hair, first thedisulphide bonds —S—S— of the keratin (cystine) are opened using acomposition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction stage), thenthe hair thus treated is optionally rinsed; secondly the disulphidebonds are reconstituted by applying, on the keratin fibers previouslyput under tension (curlers etc.), an oxidizing composition (oxidationstage, also called fixation) so as to finally give the keratin fibersthe desired form. This technique thus makes it possible to carry outeither waving or straightening of the keratin fibers. For example,JP-B-S62-9566 or U.S. Pat. No. 4,459,284 discloses a standard processfor permanent waving or straightening of keratin fibers such as hair inline with the above steps.

The new shape imposed on the keratin fibers by chemical treatment asdescribed above is relatively long-lasting and notably withstands theaction of washing with water or shampoo, in contrast to the simpleconventional techniques of temporary styling by using foams, stylinggels, or lacquers.

Many compositions and processes for the above chemical treatment havebeen proposed. Generally, they offer good performance on the day oftreatment.

However, there are various drawbacks, such as follows, in the abovechemical treatment process that may not be suitable from the viewpointof consumers' or hairdressers' expectations:

Insufficient reshaping efficiency such as weak wave intensity;

-   -   Poor usability caused by, for example, long processing time;    -   High levels of keratin fiber degradation, especially in repeated        applications or in combination with other chemical treatments        such as oxidative coloration; and    -   Malodor of ammonia or sulfur-containing compounds during and        after the deformation process.

In particular, sufficient reshaping efficiency and good usability may beimportant. There is indeed a need to improve the deformation process ofkeratin fibers to provide sufficient reshaping efficiency, such asstrong wave intensity and many curls of the curled keratin fibers, aswell as excellent usability such as short processing time.

In order to improve the usability, a one-step process without reducingor oxidizing was proposed (WO 2011/155076). However, there has been aneed to improve reshaping efficiency.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a new process forreshaping keratin fibers such as hair, which can be performed withoutreducing or oxidizing the keratin fibers, and can provide the keratinfibers with sufficient reshaping efficiency such as strong waveintensity and many curls.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by aprocess for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising thesteps of:

-   (i) applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising (a) at    least one diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols, wherein the composition has    a pH of from 8.0 to 13.5, preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more    preferably from 9.0 to 11.0;-   (ii) heating the keratin fibers; and-   (iii) optionally rinsing and/or drying the keratin fibers.

The C₄₋₅ diols may be butyleneglycol and pentyleneglycol.

The amount of the (a) diol(s) in the composition may be from 0.01 to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferablyfrom more than 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The composition may further comprise (b) at least one monovalentalcohol, preferably C₂₋₄ aliphatic monovalent alcohol, and morepreferably ethanol.

The amount of the (b) monovalent alcohol(s) in the composition may befrom 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, andmore preferably from more than 1% to 10% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount of the (a) diol/the amount of the (b)monovalent alcohol(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 10,preferably from 0.5 to 5, and more preferably from 0.3 to 3.

The composition may further comprise (c) at least one alkaline agent,preferably selected from inorganic alkaline agents except for ammonia,and more preferably selected from alkaline metal hydroxides.

The composition may further comprise (d) at least one organic acid,preferably a monovalent organic acid, more preferably a monovalentsulfonic acid, and more preferably taurine.

The amount of the (d) organic acid(s) in the composition may be from0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, and morepreferably from more than 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The composition may further comprise less than 2% by weight, preferablyless than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, ofa reducing agent.

The process is intended for deforming, preferably temporary or permanentwaving, and more preferably permanent waving, of the keratin fibers.

In the process according to the present invention, the keratin fibersmay be heated during the heating step to from 50° C. to 180° C.,preferably from 70° C. to 150° C., and more preferably from 80° C. to120° C.

The process according to the present invention may further comprise thestep of placing the keratin fibers, before the heating step, in anocclusive space surrounding the keratin fibers to keep the keratinfibers wet.

The present invention also relates to a composition for one-stepreshaping of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by heating, comprising:

(a) at least one diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols,

wherein

the composition has a pH of from 8.0 to 13.5, preferably from 8.5 to12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0.

The present invention also relates to a method for enhancing reshapingefficiency of keratin fibers as a result of a reshaping process of thekeratin fibers with a composition having a pH of 8.0 to 13.5, preferablyfrom 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0, without reducingor oxidizing the keratin fibers, characterized by adding at least onediol selected from C₄₋₅ diols to the composition.

The present invention also relates to a use of at least one diolselected from C₄₋₅ diols in a composition having a pH of 8.0 to 13.5,preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0,wherein the composition is used for reshaping keratin fibers withoutreducing or oxidizing the keratin fibers, for enhancing reshapingefficiency of the keratin fibers.

The process, composition, method and use according to the presentinvention can be used to reshape or deform keratin fibers, preferablyhair, and can provide the keratin fibers with sufficient reshapingefficiency such as strong wave intensity and many curls. Also, thepresent invention can provide good usability such as short processingtime due to the absence of the steps of reducing and oxidizing keratinfibers.

In addition, the present invention can provide keratin fibers withlong-lasting volumizing effects. In other words, the present inventioncan maintain for a long period of time the volume of style of thekeratin fibers as a result of reshaping process of the keratin fibers.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have found that the use of atleast one C₄₋₅ diol in an alkaline composition for one-step reshaping ofkeratin fibers by heating, which does not need to perform reducing andoxidizing of keratin fibers, can enhance the reshaping efficiency, suchas strong wave intensity and many curls, of the composition.

Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a process for reshapingkeratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

-   (i) applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising (a) at    least one diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols, wherein the composition has    a pH of from 8.0 to 13.5, preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more    preferably from 9.0 to 11.0;-   (ii) heating the keratin fibers; and-   (iii) optionally rinsing and/or drying the keratin fibers.

Another aspect of the present invention is a composition for one-stepreshaping of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by heating, comprising:

(a) at least one diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols,

wherein

the composition has a pH of from 8.0 to 13.5, preferably from 8.5 to12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0.

Another aspect of the present invention is a method for enhancingreshaping efficiency of keratin fibers as a result of a reshapingprocess of the keratin fibers with a composition having a pH of 8.0 to13.5, preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0,without reducing or oxidizing the keratin fibers, characterized byadding at least one diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols to the composition.

Another aspect of the present invention is a use of at least one diolselected from C₄₋₅ diols in a composition having a pH of 8.0 to 13.5,preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0,wherein the composition is used for reshaping keratin fibers withoutreducing or oxidizing the keratin fibers, for enhancing reshapingefficiency of the keratin fibers.

The present invention can reshape keratin fibers without reducing andoxidizing the keratin fibers, and can provide superior reshapingefficiency, such as strong wave intensity and many curls. For example,the process according to the present invention can reshape keratinfibers such as hair, in one step (without reducing or oxidizing thekeratin fibers) and can provide the keratin fibers with sufficientreshaping efficiency such as strong wave intensity and many curls.

Hereafter, the process, composition, method and use according to thepresent invention will each be described in a detailed manner.

[Process]

The process according to the present invention is a process forreshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

-   (i) applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising (a) at    least one diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols, wherein the composition has    a pH of from 8.0 to 13.5, preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more    preferably from 9.0 to 11.0;-   (ii) heating the keratin fibers; and-   (iii) optionally rinsing and/or drying the keratin fibers.

The details of the composition used in the process according to thepresent invention will be explained in the section titled [Composition]below. Thus, the composition used in the process according to thepresent invention can be the same as the composition according to thepresent invention.

The process according to the present invention is intended fordeforming, preferably temporary or permanent waving, and more preferablypermanent weaving, of keratin fibers such as hair.

In step (i), the composition which will be described later is applied tothe keratin fibers. The application of the composition may be performedby any means, such as a brush and a comb. It may be possible that thekeratin fibers after the application of the composition be left as theyare for a certain amount of time typically from 1 minute to 1 hour,preferably from 5 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to let thecomposition penetrate into the keratin fibers.

In step (ii), the keratin fibers are heated.

It may be preferable that the keratin fibers are heated during the (ii)heating step to 50° C. or higher, preferably 70° C. or higher, and morepreferably 80° C. or higher.

It may be preferable that the keratin fibers are heated during the (ii)heating step to 180° C. or lower, preferably 150° C. or lower, and morepreferably 120° C. or lower.

It may be preferable that the keratin fibers are heated during the (ii)heating step to from 50° C. to 180° C., preferably from 70° C. to 150°C., and more preferably from 80° C. to 120° C. The heating time may be,for example, from 5 to 30 minutes, and preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.The (ii) heating step can be performed by any heating means which can becontrolled to realize the temperature desired for the process.

According to the present invention, keratin fibers such as hair may besubjected to mechanical tension, which is typically used for deformingkeratin fibers, before and/or after step (i), and preferably before step(ii).

The mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any meansto deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape. For example, themechanical tension may be provided by at least one reshaping meansselected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, and a clip.The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater. If the keratinfibers are rolled around a curler, this rolling-up may be performed onthe entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half thelength of the keratin fibers. Depending on, for example, the desiredhairstyle shape and amount of curls, the rolling-up may be performedwith more or less thick locks.

It may be preferable that the process according to the present inventioncomprise the step of placing the keratin fibers, before the (ii) heatingstep, in an occlusive space surrounding the keratin fibers to keep thekeratin fibers wet. If the above deforming step of applying themechanical tension to the keratin fibers is performed, this placing stepcan be performed after the deforming step.

The occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means. Thecoating means may be rigid or flexible. The coating means may compriseat least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and asheet. The material of the film or the sheet is not limited. Forexample, the film or the sheet may comprise a thermoplastic orthermosetting resin, a paper, a textile, a bonnet, a metal foil such asaluminum foil, and the like.

For example, the film or sheet may be set on a heating rod, a heatingbar or a heating plate which is covered by keratin fibers, in order toform the occlusive space.

The occlusive space can restrict the evaporation of evaporablecomponents such as water in the composition which has been applied tokeratin fibers, and therefore, the temperature of the keratin fibers canbe increased higher than that obtainable by a conventional heatingprocess or device for the keratin fibers in open conditions.Furthermore, the keratin fibers can be heated effectively, and thekeratin fibers can be heated evenly.

The occlusive space may form a condensation cage in which water and acomponent or components in the composition used in the process accordingto the present invention may evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhereto the wall of the coating means, and drop onto the keratin fibers. Thiscycle may be repeated during the heating of the keratin fibers. Thus,the keratin fibers can always be kept wet, and drying and deteriorationof the keratin fibers will be prevented.

The formation of the occlusive space may be preferable because thekeratin fibers in the occlusive space can be kept wet and thetemperature of the keratin fibers can be kept constant.

The wet conditions of the keratin fibers may be preferable for theingredients in the composition used in the process according to thepresent invention to effectively penetrate into the keratin fibers.

In step (iii), the keratin fibers may be rinsed preferably with water,and/or may be dried. The drying of the keratin fibers can be performedwith a conventional drying means such as a hair drier.

[Composition]

(Diol)

The composition according to the present invention comprises at leastone (a) diol selected from C₄₋₅ diols. Two or more diols may be used incombination. Thus, a single type of diol or a combination of differenttypes of diols may be used.

Although not bound by any theory, it is believed that the (a) diol canloosen the hydrophobic interaction between keratin fibers to increasereshaping efficiency.

The C₄₋₅ diols can be butyleneglycol and pentyleneglycol.

Butyleneglycol encompasses isomers thereof. Thus, butyleneglycol may be,for example, 1,2-butyleneglycol, 1,3-butyleneglycol, 2,3-butyleneglycoland 1,4-butyleneglycol. 1,3-butyleneglycol may be preferable.

Pentyleneglycol encompasses isomers thereof. Thus, pentyleneglycol maybe 1,2-pentyleneglycol, 1,3-pentyleneglycol, 1,4-pentyleneglycol,1,5-pentyleneglycol, 2,3-pentyleneglycol, and 2,4-penyleneglycol.1,2-pentyleneglycol may be preferable.

The amount of the (a) diol(s) in the composition according to thepresent invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% byweight or more, more preferably more than 1% by weight, and even morepreferably more than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

On the other hand, the amount of the (a) diol(s) in the compositionaccording to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less,preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight orless, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a) diol(s) in the composition according to thepresent invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from more than 1% to 10% byweight, and even more preferably from more than 5% to 10% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Monovalent Alcohol)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one (b) monovalent alcohol. Two or more such alcohols may beused in combination. Thus, a single type of such alcohol or acombination of different types of such alcohol may be used.

The (b) monovalent alcohol is preferably in the form of a liquid atambient temperature such as 25° C. under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHgor 10⁵ Pa).

The term “monovalent alcohol” here means an alcohol having one hydroxygroup.

The (b) monovalent alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic) or aromatic.

The non-aromatic monovalent alcohol is preferably a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched lower aliphatic monovalent alcohol, morepreferably a C₂-C₆ aliphatic monovalent alcohol, even more preferably asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₂-C₅ aliphatic monovalentalcohol, and most preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched C₂-C₄ aliphatic monovalent alcohol. Preferred non-aromaticmonovalent alcohols are ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

The aromatic monovalent alcohol is preferably selected from the groupconsisting of benzyl alcohol, phenethylalcohol, diphenyl ethanol,cinnamyl alcohol, tryptophol, 3-nitrobenzylalcohol, veratryl alcohol,benzoin and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (b) monovalent alcohol not be a fatty alcoholor higher alcohol.

It is preferable that the (b) monovalent alcohol be selected from thegroup consisting of lower aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols andmixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consistingof ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (b) monovalent alcohol(s) in the composition accordingto the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1%by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even morepreferably 2.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

On the other hand, the amount of the (b) monovalent alcohol(s) in thecomposition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight orless, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weightor less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) monovalent alcohol(s) in the composition accordingto the present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight,preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% byweight, even more preferably from 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

It may be preferable that the weight ratio of the amount of the (a)diol/the amount of the (b) monovalent alcohol(s) in the composition befrom 0.1 to 10, more preferably from 0.5 to 5, and even more preferablyfrom 0.3 to 3.

(Alkaline Agent)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one (c) alkaline agent. Two or more (c) alkaline agents may beused in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or acombination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

The (c) alkaline agent at a high temperature may cause lanthionizationin keratin fibers which could contribute to reshaping of the keratinfibers.

The (c) alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It may bepossible that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the groupconsisting of ammonia; alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metalhydroxides; alkaline metal phosphates and monohydrogenophosphates suchas sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogenophosphate. However, it ispreferable that the (c) alkaline agent not be ammonia because of theodor thereof. Thus, it is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agentbe selected from inorganic ammonium salts such as ammonium carbonate andammonium bicarbonate; and alkylammonium hydroxides such astetramethylammonium hydroxide.

As examples of the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides, mention may bemade of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. As examples of thealkaline earth metal hydroxides, mention may be made of calciumhydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkaline agent,sodium hydroxide is preferable.

The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferablethat the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting ofmonoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof;polyamines and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivativesthereof; oligomers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof;polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea andderivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

As examples of the organic alkaline agents, mention may be made ofalkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, andisopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic aminoacids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as thosedescribed in the structure below:

wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substitutedby a hydroxyl or a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, and R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C₁-C₄hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine andderivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.

The amount of the (c) alkaline agent(s) in the composition according tothe present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% byweight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even morepreferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

On the other hand, the amount of the (c) alkaline agent(s) in thecomposition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight orless, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight orless, and even more preferably 8% by weight or less, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) alkaline agent(s) in the composition according tothe present invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferablyfrom 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight,and even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

(Organic Acid)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one (d) organic acid. Two or more (d) organic acids may be usedin combination. Thus, a single type of organic acid or a combination ofdifferent types of organic acids may be used.

The (d) organic acid may work as a buffering agent to effectivelymaintain the alkaline condition of the composition according to thepresent invention.

It may be preferable that the (d) organic acid have a pKa value of lessthan 3.5. It may be more preferable that the (d) organic acid have a pKavalue of from 0.5 to less than 3.5, more preferably from 1.0 to 3.0, andeven more preferably from 1.5 to 2.8. The pKa value may be measured at25° C. The (d) organic acid may have at least one pKa value less than3.5, and may have two or more pKa values. If the (d) organic acid hastwo or more pKa values, at least one of the pKa values must be in arange less than 3.5.

One should recall that the term “organic” means that the acid has atleast one carbon atom in its chemical structure.

It is preferable that the (d) organic acid be non-volatile. One shouldrecall that the term “non-volatile” means that the acid has a vaporpressure generally lower than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) at room temperature.

The (d) organic acid may be selected from the group consisting ofcarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, amino acids such as glycine,alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenyl alanine, β-alanine,isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine,tryptophane, tyrosine, oligomers of amino acids such as glycylglycine,and mixtures thereof.

The carboxylic acids may be selected from the group consisting of oxalicacid, malonic acid, maleic acid, salicylic acid, phthalic acid, andmixtures thereof.

The aminosulfonic acid may be selected from the group consisting oftaurine, 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (d) organic acid be selected from taurine,2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, proline, andmixtures thereof.

The amount of the (d) organic acid(s) in the composition according tothe present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% byweight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even morepreferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

On the other hand, the amount of the (d) organic acid(s) in thecomposition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight orless, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight orless, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) organic acid(s) in the composition according tothe present invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferablyfrom 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight,and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

(pH)

The pH of the composition according to the present invention is 8.0 orhigher, preferably 8.5 or higher, and more preferably 9.0 or higher.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention is 13.5 orlower, preferably 12.0 or lower, and more preferably 11.0 or lower.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention is 8.0 to13.5, preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention typicallycomprises water.

The amount of water in the composition may be from 50 to 99% by weight,preferably from 55 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60 to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same ordifferent.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form ofa liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25° C.) underatmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used incosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may bevolatile or non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a siliconeoil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an esteroil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant oranimal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, andfatty alcohols.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseedoil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil,avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil,sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanutoil, coconut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils suchas isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificialtriglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and ofsaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphaticmonoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of theesters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among thealcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention arederived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may bemade of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate,dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate orethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononylisononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylicacids and of non-sugar C₄-C₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, orpentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate;diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate;bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl)maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearylcitrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecylcitrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethyleneglycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C₆-C₃₀ andpreferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar”means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing severalalcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, andwhich comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may bemonosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (orsaccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose,mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof,especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instancemethylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the groupcomprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars describedpreviously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, thesecompounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugatedcarbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected frommonoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, andmixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates,myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially,oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as wellas pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especiallysucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates,behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the nameGlucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, forexample, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate,ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecylneopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate,2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methylpalmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate,isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexylpalmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryltri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate),2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, forexample, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryltripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryltricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), andglyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example,linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane,methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like;cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes,especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquidpolyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodifiedsilicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention aresilicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one ormore organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll'sChemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They maybe volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen fromthose having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and evenmore particularly from:

-   (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and    preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,    octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name    Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by    Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile    Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and    dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by    Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may    also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as    dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ    3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:    -   with D″:

-   -   Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic        polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the        mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and        tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of        octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and        oxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;        and

-   (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon    atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at    25° C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular    under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones    belonging to this category are also described in the article    published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp.    27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The    viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25° C. according to ASTM    standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatilesilicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, amongwhich mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containingtrimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limitingmanner, of the following commercial products:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®        oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;    -   the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;    -   the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as        DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s; and    -   the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the        SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containingdimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA),such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made ofpolydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes andpolyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of thefollowing formula:

in whichR₁ to R₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated,linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferablyC₁-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C₁-C₆hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, orbutyl radicals, andm, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under thefollowing names:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;    -   the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;    -   the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;    -   the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product        PK20;    -   certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF        1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R₁ to R₁₀ are methyl;p, q, and n=0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.

The organomodified liquid silicones may especially containpolyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be madeof the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

-   -   linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C₆-C₁₆ lower alkanes.        Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane,        dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance        isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and    -   linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon        atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly,        polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®,        and squalane and himi-squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, forexample, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane,isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin,vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixturesthereof.

The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of arelatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 ormore, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atomsare encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcoholmay be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear orbranched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R—OH wherein R is chosen fromsaturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and morepreferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R maybe chosen from C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl and C₁₂-C₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or maynot be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol,undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol,oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylalcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched,saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ alcohols, preferably straight orbranched, saturated C₆-C₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably straight orbranched, saturated C₁₂-C₂₀ alcohols.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a longaliphatic saturated, carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturatedfatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C₆-C₃₀fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C₆-C₃₀ fattyalcohols, linear or branched, saturated C₁₂-C₂₀ fatty alcohols maypreferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C₁₆-C₂₀ fattyalcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C₁₆-C₂₀ fatty alcoholsmay be even more preferably used.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of laurylalcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol,hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol,stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof(e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as asaturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in thecomposition according to the present invention is preferably chosen fromcetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferable that the oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils suchas mineral oil and silicone oils such as dimethicone.

The amount of the oil in the composition according to the presentinvention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight ormore, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of the oil in the composition according tothe present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% byweight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even morepreferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The amount of the oil in the composition according to the presentinvention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even morepreferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

(Surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used. Thus, asingle type of surfactant or a combination of different types ofsurfactants may be used.

Any surfactant may be used for the present invention. The surfactant maybe selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphotericsurfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants. Two or moresurfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type ofsurfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may beused.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of thesurfactant(s) may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relativeto the total weight of the composition used in the process according tothe present invention.

(i) Anionic Surfactants

The composition may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two ormore anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

It is preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from the groupconsisting of (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl ether sulfates,(C₆-C₃₀)alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates; (C₆-C₃₀)alkylsulfonates, (C₆-C₃₀)alkylamidesulfonates, (C₆-C₃₀)alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates; (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl phosphates; (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl sulfosuccinates,(C₆-C₃₀)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C₆-C₃₀)alkylamide sulfosuccinates;(C₆-C₃₀)alkyl sulfoacetates; (C₆-C₂₄)acyl sarcosinates; (C₆-C₂₄)acylglutamates; (C₆-C₃₀)alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers;(C₆-C₃₀)alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates; (C₆-C₃₀)alkylsulfosuccinamates; (C₆-C₂₄)acyl isethionates; N—(C₆-C₂₄)acyl taurates;C₆-C₃₀ fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconutoil acid salts; (C₈-C₂₀)acyl lactylates; (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl ether carboxylicacid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₃₀)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acidsalts; and polyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₃₀)alkylamido ether carboxylic acidsalts; and corresponding acid forms.

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form ofsalts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance sodium; salts ofalkaline-earth metals, for instance magnesium; ammonium salts; aminesalts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they mayalso be in acid form.

It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from saltsof (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl sulfate, (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl ether sulfate orpolyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C₃₀)alkyl ether carboxylic acid, salified or not.

(ii) Amphoteric Surfactants

The composition may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two ormore amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example(non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary ortertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in whichthe aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionicgroup (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate orphosphonate).

The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the groupconsisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected frombetaine-type surfactants.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from thegroup consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines,sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, inparticular, (C₈-C₂₄)alkylbetaines,(C₈-C₂₄)alkylamido(C₁-C₈)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and(C₈-C₂₄)alkylamido(C₁-C₈)alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, theamphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from(C₈-C₂₄)alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₄)alkylamido(C₁-C₈)alkylsulphobetaines,sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compoundsclassified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary &Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine,laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine,cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine,stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine,cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine,cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone oras mixtures.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine andan alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine andcocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of theproducts sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rdedition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein byreference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates andAmphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:R₁—CONHCH₂CH₂—N⁺(R₂)(R₃)(CH₂COO⁻)M⁺X⁻  (B1)in which:R₁ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R₁—COOH present in hydrolysedcoconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,R₂ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group,R₃ denotes a carboxymethyl group,M⁺ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metals such as sodium;ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;X⁻ denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides,acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C₁-C₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-C₄)— oralkyl(C₁-C₄)aryl-sulfonates, particularly methylsulfate andethylsulfate; or M⁺ and X⁻ are not present;R_(1′)—CONHCH₂CH₂—N(B)(C)  (B2)in which:R_(1′) denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R_(1′)—COOH present incoconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as aC₇, C₉, C₁₁ or C₁₃ alkyl radical, a C₁₇ alkyl radical and its iso-form,or an unsaturated C₁₇ radical,B represents —CH₂CH₂OX′,C represents —(CH₂)_(r)Y′, with z=1 or 2,X′ denotes a —CH₂—COOH group, —CH₂—COOZ′, —CH₂CH₂—COOH, —CH₂CH₂—COOZ′ ora hydrogen atom, andY′ denotes —COOH, —COOZ′, —CH₂—CHOH—SO₃Z′, —CH₂—CHOH—SO₃H radical or a—CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃—Z′ radical,wherein Z′ represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal suchas sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;andR_(a″)—NH—CH(Y″)—(CH₂)_(n)—C(O)—NH—(CH₂)_(n′)—N(Rd)(Re)  (B′2)in which:Y″ denotes —C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ″, —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃H or —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃—Z″,whereinZ″ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metal or alkaline-earthmetals such as sodium, an ion derived from organic amine or an ammoniumion;Rd and Re denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl or C₁-C₄ hydroxyalkyl radical;R_(a″) denotes a C₁₀-C₃₀ group alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid, andn and n′ independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant with formula B1 and B2be selected from (C₈-C₂₄)-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C₈-C₂₄)alkylamphodiacetates, (C₈-C₂₄)alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C₈-C₂₄)alkylamphodipropionates

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition,1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, DisodiumLauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, DisodiumCapryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, DisodiumLauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, DisodiumCaprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid andCocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate soldunder the trade name Miranol® C₂M concentrate by the company RhodiaChimie.

Among compounds of formula (B′2) mention may be made of sodiumdiethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under thedenomination CHIMEXANE HB.

(iii) Cationic Surfactants

The composition may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two ormore cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting ofoptionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fattyamine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, butare not limited to:

those of general formula (B3) below:

whereinR₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbonatoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen,sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example,from alkyl, alkoxy, C₂-C₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide,(C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkylradicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X″ ischosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₂-C₆) alkylsulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium saltsof imidazoline, for instance those of formula (B4) below:

wherein:R₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or ofcoconut;R₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C₁-C₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkylradicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;R₇ is chosen from C₁-C₄ alkyl radicals;R₈ is chosen from hydrogen and C₁-C₄ alkyl radicals; andX⁻ is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment,R₅ and R₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyland alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fattyacid derivatives of tallow, R₇ is methyl and R₈ is hydrogen. Examples ofsuch products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997)and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names“Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;di or tri quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):

wherein:R₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbonatoms;R₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4carbon atoms or a group —(CH₂)₃ (R_(16a))(R_(17a))(R_(18a))N⁺X—;R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃, R₁₄, R_(16a), R_(17a), and R_(18a), which may beidentical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicalsincluding from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; andX⁻ is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethylsulfates, and methyl sulfates.

An example of one such diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CTP ofFINETEX (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75);

and

quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such asthose of formula (B6) below:

wherein:R₂₂ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl radicals and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl anddihydroxyalkyl radicals; R₂₃ is chosen from:the radical below:

linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-basedradicals R₂₇, and hydrogen,R₂₅ is chosen from:the radical below:

linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-basedradicals R₂₉, and hydrogen,R₂₄, R₂₆, and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C₇-C₂₁,hydrocarbon-based radicals;r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromintegers ranging from 2 to 6; each of r1 and t1, which may be identicalor different, is 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integersranging from 0 to 10;X⁻ is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; withthe proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0,R₂₃ denotes R₂₇, and that when z is 0, R₂₅ denotes R₂₉. R₂₂ may bechosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R₂₂is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R₂₂ ischosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals,for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+zranges from 1 to 10. When R₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R₂₇, it maybe long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and includefrom 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R₂₉,it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of anon-limiting example, in one embodiment, R₂₄, R₂₆, and R₂₈, which may beidentical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturatedand unsaturated, C₁₁-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example fromlinear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenylradicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical ordifferent, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In anotherembodiment, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equalto 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X⁻ may be chosen from, forexample, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C₁-C₄ alkylsulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate,nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such asacetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with theammonium including an ester function, are other non-limiting examples ofanions that may be used according to the present invention. In oneembodiment, the anion X⁻ is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used,wherein:

R₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R₂₃ is chosen from:

the radical below:

methyl, ethyl, and C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen;R₂₅ is chosen from:the radical below:

and hydrogen;R₂₄, R₂₆, and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C₁₃-C₁₇hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched,saturated and unsaturated, C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentionedinclude salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, ofdiacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, ofdiacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, ofmonoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, oftriacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, ofmonoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof.In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbonatoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instancepalm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acylradicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification ofoptionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine,alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or ontomixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or bytransesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterificationmay be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosenfrom alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkylsulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methylmethanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; andglycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by thecompany Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by thecompany Ceca, and “Rewoquat® WE 18” by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in thecomposition according to the present invention include the ammoniumsalts including at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos.4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above, those that may beused in the composition according to the present invention include, butare not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for exampletetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium andalkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includesfrom about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium,distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium andbenzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride;palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; andstearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold underthe name “Ceraphyl® 70” by the company Van Dyk.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used inthe composition according to the present invention is chosen frombehenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22,behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride,palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, andstearamidopropyldimethylamine.

(iv) Nonionic Surfactants

The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or morenonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

The nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see,e.g., in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie& Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, theycan, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols andesters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylatedor glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, forexample, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number ofethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and forthe number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivativesmay also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made ofcopolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates ofethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 molof ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, forexample, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4;ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol ofethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters ofsucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fattyacid mono or diesters of glycerol (C₆-C₂₄)alkylpolyglycosides;N—(C₆-C₂₄)alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as(C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylamine oxides or N—(C₁₀-C₁₄)acylaminopropylmorpholineoxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen frommonooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated orpolyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are moreparticularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combinationthereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionicsurfactants that may be mentioned include:

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated orpolyoxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ alcohols,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated orpolyoxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ amides,

esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids andof polyalkylene glycols,

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol,

saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plantoils, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, interalia, alone or as mixtures.

The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxideand/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferablybetween 2 and 50. According to one of the embodiments of the presentinvention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen frompolyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ether of fattyalcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol esterof fatty acid).

Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols (or C₈-C₃₀alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxidewith lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12oxyethylene units (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); theadducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially thosecontaining from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, asthe CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol(mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially thosecontaining from 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-30,as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol,especially those containing from 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-10 toCeteth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide withstearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 30 oxyethyleneunits (Steareth-2 to Steareth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts ofethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFAnames); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C₈-C₃₀alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxidewith oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethyleneunits and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethyleneunits (Oleth-10 to Oleth-40, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionicsurfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcohols arepreferably used.

In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcoholscorrespond to the following formula:RO—[CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O]_(m)—H or RO—[CH(CH₂OH)—CH₂O]_(m)—Hin which R represents a linear or branched C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₈-C₃₀alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the presentinvention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcoholcontaining 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcoholcontaining 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether),cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcoholcontaining 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol ofglycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that thevalue of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in acommercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcoholmay coexist in the form of a mixture.

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it ispreferable to use the C₈/C₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, theC₁₀/C₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C₁₂ alcoholcontaining 1.5 mol of glycerol.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C₅-C₄₀ fatty esters maycorrespond to the following formula:R′O—[CH₂—CH(CH₂OR′″)—O]_(m)—R″ or R′O—[CH(CH₂OR′″)—CH₂O]_(m)—R″in which each of R′, R″ and R′″ independently represents a hydrogenatom, or a linear or branched C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₈-C₃₀ alkyl-CO— oralkenyl-CO-radical, with the proviso that at least one of R′, R″ and R′″is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentionedinclude the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid,palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof,especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such asPEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate);PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate toPEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethyleneglycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixturesthereof.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, thenonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fattyacids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, andpolyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such asglyceryl esters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids andpolyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitolesters of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids andpolyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar(sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and/or alkylglycose) esters of aC₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenatedderivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and morepreferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols;ethers of sugar and a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, fatty alcohol oralcohols; and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-,di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurateor glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and aspolyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fattyacids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester offatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferablypolyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate),such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) can becited.

Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the productcontaining glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under thename ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glycerylstearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketedunder the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE),can also be used.

The sorbitol esters of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenatedderivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitanisostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids andalkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such asfor example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), soldby the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFAname: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold bythe company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate(polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, glucose palmitate,alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate,alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate,methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleicacid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester ofmethylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFAname: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester ofmethylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucoseisostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name:Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester ofmethylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucosesesqui-isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester ofmethylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucosesesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the nameGlucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof can be cited.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose,ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particularthe polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose andstearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the nameGlucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of themixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid withabout 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucosesesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the nameGlucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name GrillocosePSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.

As sucrose esters, saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate andsaccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.

As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for exampledecylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 byKao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 byHenkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic,caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the nameORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF,laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the productmarketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearylglucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for exampleunder the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 byGoldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl andbehenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the nameMONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form ofthe mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under thename MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof can in particular becited.

Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures ofethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.

The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferablycontains alkenyl or a branched C₁₂-C₂₂ acyl chain such as an oleyl orisostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according tothe present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, thenonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxideand of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the followingformula:HO(C₂H₄O)_(a)(C₃H₆O)_(b)(C₂H₄O)_(c)Hin which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 andb ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, thenonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants.Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents U.S.Pat. Nos. 5,364,633 and 5,411,744.

The silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

in which:R₁, R₂ and R₃, independently of each other, represent a C₁-C₆ alkylradical or a radical —(CH₂)_(x)—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—(OCH₂CH₂CH₂)_(z)—OR₄, atleast one radical R₁, R₂ or R₃ not being an alkyl radical; R₄ being ahydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B arenot simultaneously equal to zero;x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in thecompound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is aninteger ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be madeof the compounds of formula (II):

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also bemade of the compounds of formula (III):H—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—(CH₂)₃—[(CH₃)₂SiO]_(A′)—(CH₂)₃—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—OH  (III)in which A′ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold bythe company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695and Q4-3667. The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 arecompounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and yis 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; and A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

The compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 andy is 13.

(Conditioning Agent)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one conditioning agent. Two or more conditioning agents may beused in combination. Thus, a single type of conditioning agent or acombination of different types of conditioning agents may be used.

The conditioning agent can provide keratin fibers such as hair withconditioning effects.

It is preferable that the conditioning agent be selected from cationicpolymers.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at leastone cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, buttwo or more different types of cationic polymers may be used incombination.

It should be noted that, for the purposes of the present invention, theterm “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationic groupsand/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.

Such polymers may be chosen from those already known per se as improvingthe cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e., especially those described inpatent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

The cationic polymers that are preferred are chosen from thosecontaining units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/orquaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymerchain or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecularmass of between approximately 500 and approximately 5×10⁶ and preferablybetween approximately 10³ and approximately 3×10⁶.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly arepolymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammoniumtype.

These are known products. They are described in particular in Frenchpatents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997. Among the said polymers, mention may bemade of the following.

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylicesters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula(I), (II), (III) or (IV) below:

in whichR₃, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH₃radical;A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branchedalkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or ahydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;R₄, R₅ and R₆, which may be identical or different, represent an alkylgroup containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical andpreferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or analkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methylor ethyl; andX denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as amethosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derivedfrom comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides,methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamidessubstituted on the nitrogen with lower (C₁-C₄) alkyls, acrylic ormethacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such asvinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

-   -   copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate        quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,        such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company        Hercules,    -   the copolymers of acrylamide and of        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for        example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the        name Bina Quat P 100 by the company BASF,    -   the copolymer of acrylamide and of        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under        the name Reten by the company Hercules,    -   quaternized or non-quaternized        vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate        copolymers, such as the products sold under the name “Gafquat”        by the company ISP, for instance “Gafquat 734” or “Gafquat 755”,        or alternatively the products known as “Copolymer 845, 958 and        937”. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2        077 143 and 2 393 573,    -   dimethylaminoethyl        methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such        as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company        ISP, and    -   vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers        sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, and        quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide        copolymers such as the product sold under the name “Gafquat HS        100” by the company ISP.

(2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammoniumgroups, which are described in French patent 1 492 597, and inparticular the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymersare also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulosequaternary ammoniums that have reacted with an epoxide substituted witha trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as the copolymers of celluloseor cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternaryammonium monomer, described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, suchas hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- orhydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with amethacryloylethyl-trimethylammonium,methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The commercial products corresponding to this definition are moreparticularly the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and CelquatH 100 by the company Akzo Nobel.

(4) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in U.S. Pat. Nos.3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammoniumcationic groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with asalt (e.g., chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium. Mention maybe made of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyl guarhydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, such as those sold especially underthe trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C14S, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 bythe company Solvay.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene orhydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains,optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or byaromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/orquaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described,in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.

(6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular bypolycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, adianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, abis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkylhalide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction ofa difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, abis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, anepihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; thecrosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides canbe alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions,they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, inFrench patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.

(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium,such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as a main constituentof the chain, units corresponding to formula (V) or (VI):

in which formulaek and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R₉ denotes ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R₇ and R₈, independently of eachother, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, ahydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbonatoms, a lower (C₁-C₄) amidoalkyl group, or R₇ and R₈ can denote,together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclicgroups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R₇ and R₈, independently ofeach other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbonatoms; and Y⁻ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate,citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. Thesepolymers are described in particular in French patent 2 080 759 and inits Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularlyof the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name“Merquat 100” by the company Nalco (and its homologues of lowweight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers ofdiallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name“Merquat 550”.

(8) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating unitscorresponding to the formula:

in which formula (VII):R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, which may be identical or different, representaliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternativelyR₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, together or separately, constitute, with thenitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionallycontaining a second hetero atom other than nitrogen, or alternativelyR₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃ represent a linear or branched C₁-C₆ alkyl radicalsubstituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group—CO—O—R₁₄-D or —CO—NH—R₁₄-D where R₁₄ is an alkylene and D is aquaternary ammonium group;A₁ and B₁ represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbonatoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, andwhich may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one ormore aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide,sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium,ureido, amide or ester groups, andX⁻ denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;A₁, R₁₀ and R₁₂ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they areattached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A₁ denotes a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical,B₁ can also denote a group —(CH₂)_(n)—CO-D-OC—(CH₂)_(n)— in which Ddenotes:i) a glycol residue of formula: —O—Z—O—, where Z denotes a linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one ofthe following formulae:—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—CH₂—CH₂—; and—[CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O]_(y)—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined andunique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representingan average degree of polymerization;ii) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;iii) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula —NH—Y—NH—, where Y denotesa linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively thedivalent radical —CH₂—CH₂—S—S—CH₂—CH₂—; oriv) a ureylene group of formula —NH—CO—NH—.

Preferably, X⁻ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of between1000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and U.S. Pat.Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002,2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193,4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

It is more particularly possible to use polymers that consist ofrepeating units corresponding to the following formula (VIII):

in whichR₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, which may be identical or different, denote analkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atomsapproximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,and X⁻ is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

One particularly preferred compound of formula (VIII) is that for whichR₁₀, R₁₁ R₁₂ and R₁₃ represent a methyl group, n=3, p=6 and X═Cl, whichis called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI(CTFA)nomenclature.

(9) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Cognis, which is given underthe reference name “Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine” in theCTFA dictionary.

(10) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C₁-C₄)alkyltri(C₁-C₄)alkylammonium saltpolymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization ofdimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or bycopolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylatequaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization beingfollowed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinicunsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinkedacrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer(20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weightof the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. Thisdispersion is sold under the name “Salcare® SC 92” by the company BASF.A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymercontaining about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in aliquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under thenames “Salcare® SC 95” and “Salcare® SC 96” by the company AlliedColloids.

(11) Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of thepresent invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particularpolyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridiniumunits, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternarypolyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

It is preferable that the cationic polymer be a polyquaternium polymeror a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt.

Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts are cationic polymers comprising atleast one quaternized nitrogen atom. Mention may in particular be made,as polymeric quaternary ammonium salts, of the Polyquaternium products(CTFA name), which contribute mainly to the quality of foam and feelingof the skin after use, in particular the feeling of the skin after use.These polymers can preferably be chosen from the following polymers:

Polyquaternium-5, such as the product Merquat 5 sold by Nalco;

Polyquaternium-6, such as the product Salcare SC 30 sold by BASF and theproduct Merquat 100 sold by Nalco;

Polyquaternium-7, such as the products Merquat S, Merquat 2200, Merquat7SPR, and Merquat 550 sold by Nalco and the product Salcare SC 10 soldby BASF;

Polyquaternium-10, such as the product Polymer JR400 sold by Amerchol;

Polyquaternium-11, such as the products Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N andGafquat 734 sold by ISP;

Polyquaternium-15, such as the product Rohagit KF 720 F sold by Röhm;

Polyquaternium-16, such as the products Luviquat FC905, Luviquat FC370,Luviquat HM552 and Luviquat FC550 sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-28, such as the product Styleze CC10 sold by ISP;

Polyquaternium-44, such as the product Luviquat Care sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-46, such as the product Luviquat Hold sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-47, such as the product Merquat 2001 sold by Nalco; and

Polyquaternium-67, such as the product Softcat SL-5, SL-30, SL-60 andSL-100 sold by Amerchol.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from, Polyquaternium-10,Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-67, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and their mixtures.

The amount of the conditioning agent(s) such as cationic polymer(s) isnot limited, but the amount of the conditioning agent(s) may be from0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, and morepreferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

(Organic Acid Salt of Alkaline Earth Metal)

The composition according to the present invention may further compriseat least one organic acid salt of alkaline earth metal. Two or more suchsalts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of such salt or acombination of different types of such salts may be used.

If a plurality of organic acid salts of alkaline earth metal are used,it is possible that the type of organic acid is different and/or thetype of alkaline earth metal is different.

The alkaline earth metal may be selected from magnesium and calcium.

The type of the (d) organic acid is independent from the type of theorganic acid forming the organic acid salt of alkaline earth metal. Itis preferable that the (d) organic acid is different from the organicacid forming the organic acid salt of alkaline earth metal.

The organic acid may be selected from α-hydroxy acids.

The α-hydroxy acids may be represented by the following formula (I):

whereinR1=H, —OH, —NH₂, —CH₂COOH or a linear or branched C₁₋₄ alkyl,R₂═H, —COOH, —CHOH—COOH, —CF₃, —CH═CH₂, —NHCONH₂, a linear, branched orcyclic C₁₋₈ alkyl optionally substituted with a radical chosen from —OH,Cl, —NH₂, —COOH, —CF₃ and —SCH₃; a phenyl or benzyl optionallysubstituted with one —OH or —OCH₃ radical; or alternatively the radical

andR₁ and R₂ may also together form an oxo radical (═O) or a cyclopropyl,cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl ring with thecarbon atom that bears them, or alternatively the radical

andwhen R₁═H, R₂ may also represent a —(CHOH)₂CH₂OH or —(CHOH)₃CH₂OHradical, R═—OH or —NR3R4 with R3, R4=H or a linear or branched C₁₋₄alkyl optionally substituted with one or two OH radicals, as well asstereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.

The α-hydroxy acids may be selected from the following:

glycolic acid, oxalic acid, lactic acid,1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid,2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isoserine, glycericacid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid,2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid,1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, citramalicacid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid,mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid, glyoxylurea,β-imidazolelactic acid, 2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid,hexahydromandelic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, arabic acid,3-phenylactic acid, hydroxyphenylglycine, 3-hydroxymandelic acid,4-hydroxymandelic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, L-arginic acid,3-methoxymandelic acid, 4-methoxymandelic acid,3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid, tartronic acid, β-chlorolactic acid,1-cyclopentanol-1-carboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylicacid, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutric acid, α-hydroxyisocaproic acid,α-hydroxycaproic acid, 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid, malic acid,hydroxytartronic acid, gluconic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide,N-ethyllactamide, N,N-dimethyllactamide, N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide, andstereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.

It may be preferable that the α-hydroxy acid be selected from the groupconsisting of glycolic acid, oxalic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid,D-lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, arabic acid,gluconic acid, hydroxytartronic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide,N-ethyllactamide, and N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide.

It may be more preferable that α-hydroxy acid be selected from the groupconsisting of gluconic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid,citric acid, tartaric acid, and mandelic acid.

It may be even more preferable that the α-hydroxy acid be gluconic acid.If gluconate is used as the organic acid salt of alkaline earth metal,in particular Mg, the time period of the heating step (ii) in theprocess according to the present invention can be shortened. Althoughnot bound by any theory, it is believed that this effect is based oncatalytic effects of the alkaline earth metal gluconate such asmagnesium gluconate.

The amount of the organic acid salt(s) of alkaline earth metal in thecomposition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weightor more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably morethan 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of the organic acid salt(s) of alkalineearth metal in the composition according to the present invention may be10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and morepreferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The amount of the organic acid salt(s) of alkaline earth metal in thecomposition may be from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to5% by weight, and more preferably from more than 0.1% to 1% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other Ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise atleast one additional ingredient.

The amount of the additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may befrom 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition according to the present invention. The additionalingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophilicthickeners; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; peptides andderivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents andpenetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruffagents; associative-type or not, natural or synthetic thickeners foroils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes;sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservingagents, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

Since the present invention does not perform reducing and oxidizingkeratin fibers for reshaping the keratin fibers, the compositionaccording to the present invention may be free from a reducing agent oran oxidizing agent which is conventionally used in, for example,permanent waving of keratin fibers such as hair.

However, if necessary, it may be possible for the composition accordingto the present invention to include a very small amount of a reducingagent or an oxidizing agent, in particular a reducing agent.

For example, the composition according to the present invention maycomprise less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, andmore preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of a reducing agent. It ismost preferable that the composition according to the present inventioninclude no reducing agent.

In any event, the composition according to the present invention canreduce the damage to the keratin fibers because the upper limit of thereducing agent in the composition according to the present invention isvery low.

[Method and Use]

The present invention also relates to a method for enhancing reshapingefficiency of keratin fibers as a result of a reshaping process of thekeratin fibers with a composition having a pH of 8.0 to 13.5, preferablyfrom 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0, without reducingor oxidizing the keratin fibers, characterized by adding at least onediol selected from C₄₋₅ diols to the composition.

The present invention also relates to a use of at least one diolselected from C₄₋₅ diols in a composition having a pH of 8.0 to 13.5,preferably from 8.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 9.0 to 11.0,wherein the composition is used for reshaping keratin fibers withoutreducing or oxidizing the keratin fibers, for enhancing reshapingefficiency of the keratin fibers.

The details of C₄₋₅ diols and the other details of the composition usedin the method and use according to the present invention are the same asthose explained in the section titled [Composition] above. Thus, thecomposition used in the method and use according to the presentinvention can be the same as the composition according to the presentinvention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by wayof examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limitingthe scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4

{Preparations}

The following compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and ComparativeExamples 1-4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredientsshown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of theingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as activeraw materials. The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 andComparative Examples 1-4 were in the form of a gel.

TABLE 1 Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 KOH6.8 6.8 6.8 6.8 6.8 6.8 Taurine 15.4 15.4 15.4 15.4 15.4 15.4 ButyleneGlycol 10 — — — — — Pentylene Glycol — 10 — — — — Glycerin — — — 10 — —Propylene Glycol — — — — 10 — Hexylen Glycol — — — — — 10Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Polyquatemitun-67 0.5 0.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water qsp qsp qspqsp qsp qsp 100 100 100 100 100 100 pH 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7Curl Efficiency Good Good Fair Poor Poor Fair Curl Number Good Good FairPoor Poor Fair

Evaluations

3 g of each composition was applied on 3 g of a pre-shampooed Chinesehair swatch, and the hair was wound onto a 18-mm perm rod and covered bya physical wrap of a plastic film, and then heated by a digital permmachine (ASIA perm machine) for 20 minutes at 90° C. After removing thephysical wrap, the hair on rod was cooled at ambient temperature for 5minutes and removed from the rod. The hair was then rinsed with tapwater, the curl shape was aligned, and the hair was dried in an oven.

The curl efficiency and the curl number of the curled hair wereevaluated as follows.

(Curl Efficiency)

The value of (L₀−L)/L₀ (wherein L₀ means the length of hair beforecurling and L means the length of hair after curling) was determined foreach of the hair swatches by measuring the length of the hair before andafter curling, and the determined value was evaluated in accordance withthe following criteria.

Very Good: Equal to or more than 0.16

Good: Equal to or more than 0.13 and less than 0.16

Fair: Equal to or more than 0.11 and less than 0.13

Poor: Less than 0.11

The results are shown in Table 1

(Curl Number)

The number of curls was counted for each of the hair swatches, andevaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

Very Good: Equal to or more than 11

Good: Equal to or more than 9 and less than 11

Fair: Equal to or more than 7 and less than 9

Poor: Less than 7

The results are shown in Table 1.

Larger curl number and larger curl efficiency mean better curlperformance.

As shown in Table 1, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol enhanced thecurl performance, whereas glycerin and propylene glycol decreased thecurl efficacy, and hexylene glycol did not enhance the performance.

Examples 3-5 and Comparative Example 5

{Preparations}

The following compositions according to Examples 3-4 and ComparativeExample 5 shown in Table 2 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shownin Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredientsshown in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.The compositions according to Examples 3-5 and Comparative Example 5were in the form of an emulsion.

TABLE 2 Comp. Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 5 NaOH 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4Monoethanolamine 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 Taurine 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 MagnesiumGluconate 0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125 Pentylene Glycol 10 7.5 5 — Ethanol —2.5 5 — Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Polyquatemium-67 0.5 0.50.5 0.5 Dimethicone 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Mineral Oil 5 5 5 5 Steareth-2 2 2 22 Steareth-20 2 2 2 2 Water qsp qsp qsp qsp 100 100 100 100 pH 10.7 10.710.7 10.7 Curl Efficiency Good Very Very Poor Good Good Curl Number GoodGood Very Good Good Volumizing and Good Good Good Fair Styling Effects

Evaluations

1 g of each composition was applied on 1 g of a pre-shampooed Chinesehair swatch, and the hair was wound onto a 16-mm perm rod and covered bya physical wrap of a plastic film, and then heated by a digitalprocessor (OOHIRO ODIS EX) for 10 minutes at 90° C. After removing thephysical wrap, the hair on the rod was cooled at ambient temperature for5 minutes and removed from the rod. The hair was then rinsed with tapwater, the curl shape was aligned, and the hair was dried in an oven.

The curl efficiency and the curl number of the curled hair wereevaluated as follows.

(Curl Efficiency)

The value of (L₀−L)/L₀ (wherein L₀ means the length of hair beforecurling and L means the length of hair after curling) was determined foreach of the hair swatches by measuring the length of the hair before andafter curling, and the determined value was evaluated in accordance withthe following criteria.

Very Good: Equal to or more than 0.16

Good: Equal to or more than 0.13 and less than 0.16

Fair: Equal to or more than 0.11 and less than 0.13

Poor: Less than 0.11

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Curl Number)

The number of curls was counted for each of the hair swatches, andevaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

Very Good: Equal to or more than 11

Good: Equal to or more than 9 and less than 11

Fair: Equal to or more than 7 and less than 9

Poor: Less than 7

(Volumizing and Styling Effects)

The volumizing and styling effects of the side to which the compositionhad been applied were evaluated just after styling and after 8 hours bytwo expert panels in accordance with the following criteria.

Good: More volume compared to the untreated side and the benefit lastedfor 8 hours or more Fair: More volume compared to the untreated side butthe benefit decreased after 8 hours

The results are shown in Table 2.

As shown in Table 2, a combination of pentylene glycol and ethanolimproved curl performance as well as volumizing and styling effects. Inaddition, the mixture of these solvents with a certain ratio showedfurther better performance.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A process for reshaping keratin fiberscomprising: (i) applying onto the keratin fibers a compositioncomprising pentylene glycol and at least one monovalent alcohol, whereinthe composition has a pH ranging from 8.0 to 13.5, and wherein thecomposition is free of a reducing agent; and (ii) heating the keratinfibers after applying the composition onto the keratin fibers.
 2. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the composition has a pH rangingfrom 9.0 to 11.0.
 3. The process according to claim 1, wherein theamount of pentylene glycol in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 20%by weight, relative to a total weight of the composition.
 4. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein the amount of pentylene glycol in thecomposition ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 5. The process according to claim 1, whereinthe amount of the at least one monovalent alcohol in the compositionranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the weightratio of the amount of pentylene glycol to the amount of the at leastone monovalent alcohol in the composition ranges from 0.1 to
 10. 7. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the amount ofpentylene glycol to the amount of the at least one monovalent alcohol inthe composition ranges from 0.3 to
 3. 8. The process according to claim1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one alkalineagent.
 9. The process according to claim 8, wherein the at least onealkaline agent is selected from inorganic alkaline agents other thanammonia.
 10. The process according to claim 8, wherein the at least onealkaline agent is selected from alkaline metal hydroxides.
 11. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprisesat least one organic acid.
 12. The process according to claim 11,wherein the at least one organic acid is a monovalent organic acid. 13.The process according to claim 1, wherein the process comprises wavingthe keratin fibers.
 14. The process according to claim 1, wherein thekeratin fibers are heated during the heating step at a temperatureranging from 50° C. to 180° C.
 15. The process according to claim 1,further comprising a step of placing the keratin fibers, before theheating step, in an occlusive space surrounding the keratin fibers. 16.The process according to claim 1, further comprising a step of rinsingand/or drying the keratin fibers following the heating step.